you're welcome !
your camera focus should have been working as calibrated in the factory. In your hardware documents (blueprints, if you have them) you should have a sort of check list with what you ordered and the constants that were set for the machine.
My top camera has a minor minor rotation offset too. This isn't affecting anything. Part centering should occur with a target / marking in the 1/3 central area of the picture to avoid distortion (it's a VERY GOOD quality wide angle optic but it's still a fish eye). I have a PCB which is missing the centering crosshair for my TQFP, I can't use the extension of the crosshair to match the pin on top/bottom/left/right, it's not accurate. The proper method is to go in a corner (in teaching mode), press 1, opposite corner, press 2, then C (center). Same applies to tray programming with large pockets. For your top camera, what is important is the calibration of the magnification constant so that your Fids are recognized properly and not ignored for size reasons. Also, what is capital is the nozzle to top cam offset. This is the FIRST thing to diagnose / adjust. In the upcoming manual (sorry to keep you guys waiting, I'd like to shoot up as many typos / grammar mistakes first).
Some constants in K10 are controlling the focus, basically I believe it's the height of the Z shaft to bring the nozzle in focus. Mine is set to 360
, that's for the param referred as scrub in the quick settings, there's also another name focus and I have 80
. Part focusing is then using the part thickness to elevate that ref of the thickness so that the bottom of the part is in focus.
How did you refocus ? My picture aren't so "sharp" but my nozzle tip seems in focus (I'll check again)
Checking that the focus is good is easy. Even without a part, go into the nozzle exchanger menu then edit mode, select the posi2 and teaching mode with F8. That will make sure you have both nozzle to bottom camera aligned and in focus. Choose a large nozzle (#3 or 4) and check that the edges are not blurred by offsetting a bit the nozzle centering from the camera (to move the crosshair and target circle away).
lighting : I admit I didn't check those settings. Keep in mind that absolute lighting or grey levels aren't required for bottom vision. The system makes an average based on min and max shades found in the picture. If you light up too much, you'll wash out the picture.
Attached my pot settings. VR1 is the brighter lighting (22x). VR2 is the lower lighting (12x). VR4 is the medium lighting (2x). MDC indicated that the difference between the medium and the extremes is about 20-30%. Ideally, you use a "standard" part to define the medium, then adjust the lower and the higher ones. The pic (sorry about the quality, maglite in one hand to light up under the smoked plexiglass, phone in the other hand) reflects this (VR1 is on the right) :
VR1 set to 3/4, VR2 almost at the min, VR4 in the middle. Those settings work.
here's a test with a "medium-rare" part
(That's part #19 in my part datalist below). The part has finish problems on the leads (bumpy). Too much lighting was causing reflection problem with the center pad, so I used 126 to test the vision. Still getting some reflections, so I increase the level to filter everything but whitish shades. Level isn't an absolute level if you keep it under 50. Level is supposed to be a modifier for the calculated (dynamic) threshold calculated on the picture. In this case I increased it by 50%. I could have used regular vision 26 and an even higher Level like 2.0 but I preferred to reduce the lighting.
As you see on the picture, it's getting the lead edges perfect.
my parts definition
I generally don't check with 22x, it's not needed, I don't have parts with so much problematic leads contrast. The QFN16 is checked also like that because the contrast is poor and the pad finish is oxidized (I have those parts for quite a while).
The LGA however is perfect with regular lighting. While I spent a good hour on the first 2 SSOP (I didn't understand how Level worked at that time). The LGA took 10 minutes (plus I was in cheat mode with the adafruit tutorial for that very package). The TQFP (#15) worked like first place or almost.
when you say flat out, are you talking about the adjustable pot. ? VR1 should set the brighter lighting. Checking the exact meaning of flat out, it's "full throttle", right ? then with the level at 0.3, you basically accept most of the darker shades as white (pic is already white washed and you accept the dark pixels => you pic is almost white). That could be your problem.
ideally post a screen cap of a vision test of a SSOP or SOIC like above. Also post a pic of your potentiometers setup so that we can compare !