We love LED goggles here at Adafruit, which is why we’ve got a great “aviator” goggle-mod project over here. However, if you prefer to make a pair of steampunk goggles rather than mod something off-the-shelf… you’ve come to the right place.
The test bench uses the stepper motor to turn a “throttle shaft” approx 90°, stopping every 0.75° to take an ADC measurement of the Throttle Position Sensor being tested. Usually, 120 or more values are measured and then put in an array and analyzed for standard deviation and also some strict bounding to make sure the plot doesn’t wave around too much. The bench decides if it’s good or bad. If it’s good, the response plot is printed out on the Thermal Printer with a summary of the analysis.
My company sells aftermarket parts for Ducati motorcycles and I started supplying TPSs. Two of the 4 models we sell I had custom made for us; they’re not currently available via retail channels. During my normal OCD understanding of how and why things work, I came to learn that the manufacturing industry considers a 4 point test to be the standard QC. And it doesn’t matter what continent the parts are coming from, that’s normal. After having a customer receive a TPS that had wonky output, I built a crude v1 test bench. Using a Mega and a crappy salvage store stepper, this bench was good enough to help us eliminate TPSs that slipped through the normal 4 point QC. I used my 3D printer to make the 54T gear and input to the TPS. This setup with the 1:3 gearing and crappy stepper was able to measure 33 to 35 points in each TPS. I basically checked that the change between steps’ measurements was within some range of bounds.
But to SEE the plot of the TPS, I had to use the serial monitor, copy the values as measured, paste them into a spreadsheet, then create a graph; in other words too much work! Then I discovered the 1.8″ TFT Shield with Joystick glowy thing. Upon the completion of this other crazy project, I knew it would be great to see the plot. Then when I saw the serial thermal printer I needed to make V2 of the TPS bench happen — I could print this part’s plot and include with it! No one gives 3 cares about quality, let alone like this. A little bit of effort on my part ensures no customer or shop will have to go through the painstaking process of replacing a TPS I sold them because it was built poorly! (well, never again after that first guy)
to be continued… gotta get to the pub. Still to come: explanation of the choices of equipment, pics of the guts, and some gotcha’s I learned along the way….
Rich_O shared an Arduino robotics project he has been working on for a while on the Adafruit Forums — and has shared code he tuned for autonomous roving!
I wanted to share the learning project I have been working on to program the Arduino and control a robot.
I purchased the J-Bot rover chassis (4 wheel / 4 motor DFROBOT ROB003), the (((Ping ultrasonic range finder, Standard RC servo (HS-311), Arduino Uno and the Adafruit V2 motor controller. I initially attempted this project with the Leonardo but It was to difficult for me to use the USB interface with the Leo’s virtual USB port. I used the 5 AA battery holder (fitted inside the rover between the motors) and batteries to power the motors and a 6 AA batteries to power the Arduino Uno and servo.
My next step is to add remote control via integration with my onboard Raspi via WiFi and the MobaXterm remote terminal.
For years we’ve seen all sorts of microcontroller-friendly WiFi modules but none of them were really Adafruit-worthy. Either they were too slow, or too difficult to use, or required signing an NDA, or had limited functionality, or too expensive, or too large. So we shied away from carrying any general purpose microcontroller-friendly WiFi boards.
The CC3000 hits that sweet spot of usability, price and capability. It uses SPI for communication (not UART!) so you can push data as fast as you want or as slow as you want. It has a proper interrupt system with IRQ pin so you can have asynchronous connections. It supports 802.11b/g, open/WEP/WPA/WPA2 security, TKIP & AES. A built in TCP/IP stack with a “BSD socket” interface. TCP and UDP in both client and server mode, up to 4 concurrent sockets. It does not support “AP” mode, it can connect to an access point but it cannot be an access point.
We wrapped this little silver modules in a tidy breakout board. It has an onboard 3.3V regulator that can handle the 350mA peak current, and a level shifter to allow 3 or 5V logic level. The antenna layout is identical to TI’s suggested layout and we’re using the same components, trace arrangement, and antenna so the board maintains its FCC emitter compliance (you’ll still need to perform FCC validation for a finished product, but the WiFi part is taken care of). Even though it’s got an onboard antenna we were pretty surprised at the range, as good as a smartphone’s.
Each order comes with one fully assembled and tested breakout and a small stick of header you can use to solder in and plug into a breadboard. We don’t have a detailed tutorial yet but to get you started, we’ve got a fully working Arduino library that is based off of TI’s codebase but adapted for use with the AVR. We also have example code showing how to scan the SSID’s, connect to your access point and run DHCP, do a DNS lookup to IP address, ping a site and connect to a remote TCP socket such as a website and print out the page.
Why is openness important in hardware? “Because open hardware platforms become the platform where people start to develop their own products,” Banzi told Ars. “For us, it’s important that people can prototype on the BeagleBone [a similar product] or the Arduino, and if they decide to make a product out of it, they can go and buy the processors and use our design as a starting point and make their own product out of it.”
The Disc is made of black and frosted laser Cut Acrylic. Neodymium magnets hold it to the holster on my back, which is bolted through my leather jacket and through a backpack. I left the bottom two magnets out of the holster to aid in removal. The disc contains an Arduino Nano, Wixel, ADXL345 Accelerometer, TCS230 color sensor, 1450mAh 3S Turnigy LiPo, 16 outward facing LPD8806 RGB LEDs, and a 5v switching regulator.
The Jacket has 80 LPD8806 LEDs mounted onto checkout store pricing strip and adhered to the leather with 3M 969 adhesive transfer tape (its good stuff!). White cloth ribbon is used as a diffuser, and the back side of the clear cover is painted white.
Audio from the helmet is ran through two op amps, first a unity buffer, then one set up as a log amp, (both on a TS922, low voltage, rail to rail) and finally though a msgeq7. The analog sections are on their own 3.3v regulator to reduce noise. Automatic channel muting and more level adjusting is implemented in software.
User input is both from the Disc via another Wixel, and from a Wireless Wii Nunchuk (Memorex brand). A level converter is REQUIRED for a Nunchuk, without one a Nunchuk will eventually short out, likely taking your Arduino with it!
The jacket also pairs with my phone via a JY-MCU-HC-06 Bluetooth Radio. A Python script on my phone allows incoming text messages to change the helmet display and my colors. It also replies with a status message with basic statistics.
HAPPY HALLOWEEN! Each weekday this month we’ll be bringing you ideas and projects for an Electronic Halloween! Expect wearables, hacks & mods, costumes and more here on the Adafruit blog! Working on a project for Halloween this year? Share it with us on Google+, in the comments below, the Adafruit forums, Facebook, or Twitter– we’d love to see what you’re up to and share it with the world (tag your posts #ElectronicHalloween). Tune in to our live shows, Wearable Electronics with Becky Stern and Ask an Engineer, where Adafruit store discount codes are announced– get the most bang for your Halloween buck!
One nice thing to have in any home automation or alarm system is a camera to see what’s going on remotely. Of course, such solutions already exists, and you even have WiFi cameras that you can buy for under $50. But they are not open-source, and therefore it is difficult to have the control on what’s going on, or to customize the interface. In 2012, a nice tutorial was published on how to build such a connected camera. You can find the tutorial here. We will do something different in this article: we will use the CC3000 WiFi chip and the Arduino platform, along with a serial camera, to build you own wireless camera. You will learn how to take still pictures from your home and display them on your computer remotely. Let’s dive in!
This is a project I have been working on for a very long time. I am finally at the point of writing it up. It’s been so long in fact I can’t even remember all the details so this will piece it together as best I can with lots of pictures and some vague descriptions of what’s going on.
Basically it’s my John Steed marionette. John Steed of course being one of the two main characters form the 60s television programme The Avengers. The other (best known) main character being Mrs Peel.
Adding quality audio to an electronic project is surprisingly difficult. Here is a shield for Arduinos that solves this problem. It can play up to 22KHz, 12bit uncompressed audio files of any length. It’s low cost, available as an easy-to-make kit. It has an onboard DAC, filter and op-amp for high quality output. Audio files are read off of an SD/MMC card, which are available at nearly any store. Volume can be controlled with the onboard thumbwheel potentiometer.
SPACE FACE! This week’s Halloween wearables project is a constellation across your face with LED galaxy makeup! We were inspired by the Cassiopeia constellation and used five FLORA NeoPixels to light up the night sky across your forehead, affixed with liquid latex. GEMMA and a coincell battery back reside on a hair clip and run the pixels in any color you choose. Watch the video on YouTube (please subscribe!) or Vimeo, and don’t miss the complete guide on the Adafruit Learning System.
Join Becky Stern and friends every week as we delve into the wonderful world of wearables, live on YouTube. We’ll answer your questions, announce a discount code for the Adafruit store, and explore wearable components, techniques, special materials, and projects you can build at home! Ask your wearables questions in the comments, and if your question is featured, you’ll be entered to win the show giveaway, which this week is a GEMMA, four FLORA NeoPixels, and coincell battery holder!
Dr_Speed completed the GEMMA + NeoPixel ring pendant project!
Gemma board, Neopixel ring and LiPo battery for animated necklace pendant. Runs for hours on this battery, very bright. Only 3 wires to solder to get the hardware going. A bit of work to get this cross compiling on OSX, you have to do a bit of monkeying around to get the IDE going with the Gemma and you need to replace the ld.exe to get the sketch/library to work.
The Gemma and NeoPixel ring are from Adafruit and LiPo battery and charger (not shown) are from Sparkfun.
My son loves our Roomba vacuum cleaner. He loves to watch it work, loves to take it apart and clean it, even loves to watch 10 min teardown videos on Youtube. As such, we knew we had to make him a Roomba costume for Halloween. But what about my wife and I? The virtual walls!